Seasoning Sluts

Po Boy Views

By

Phil LaMancusa

Seasoning Sluts

or

Alimentary My Dear Watson

            It starts when a big hipped woman turns from a kitchen counter and places on the table before you a perfect hot buttery slice of cinnamon toast; you’re only seven years old, but you have fallen deeply and completely in love for the very first time. It continues a year or so later when you marvel at the freshly fried donut, dusted with sugar and the elusive hint of nutmeg caressing your olfactory senses.

            Fast forward: today I counted over seventy containers of spices, herbs and combinations thereof in my kitchen; surely a monster had been created those sixty odd years ago. Incidentally, for the perfect cinnamon sugar, use two Tablespoon of good cinnamon mixed with a half a cup of granulated sugar.

            Obviously not only, at an early age, did I want to explore new flavors, but I wanted to know how and why those flavors combined to lift hearts and spirits; the taste of smothered onions on a hot dog at a ball game; the way chili and a cheeseburger go so well together; why sage can put a turkey dressing over the top and how just a pinch of salt completes the taste of freshly whipped cream.

            I started studying seasoning mixtures after I worked with Paul Prudhomme at Commander’s Palace over forty five years ago, I cooked in a Japanese restaurant in Santa Fe; Polynesian food in Lake Tahoe; a Jewish country club in Denver; became a curry chef in Monterey and perfected my Scallop Ceviche in San Diego. I also can make a Pousse Café and a damn good Sazerac cocktail. I went to culinary school where we did food pairings and ingredient tastings; I excel in classic Beurre Blancs and make a mean Oeufs a la Niege. Dolmades and Tiropitas are not just Greek to me; I’ve perfected the classic Ciabatta and folks have been known to hollah for my Challah.

            Now, I’m into spices and you should be too. Why? Because we are a food city and the tastes that are arriving into our food culture are like swallows (pun intended) descending on Capistrano. No longer only the Creole/Cajun capitol of gustatory delights; our new culinary citizens include more Middle Western, Asian and Hispanic than you can shake a spatula at, and counting, and it’s high time you got into that number!

            My advice is that you get together with a few friends and bounce some ideas around; discuss the wonders of a great Ras al hanout; whether a Gulai Nangka really needs candlenuts to complete and what amount of Bere Bere to put into your favorite Doro Wat. Getting with others of your ilk will allow you to purchase ingredients in quantity. I am convinced that the prices that markets (over)charge for the excessive packaging of spices has daunted many a seasoning adventurer.

            For starters you should pick up a copy (your local library should have one) of Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen, the bible of our local food and study his seasoning mixes that he uses; there must be at least thirty in that one book alone.

            Next, go on field trips. The Spice and Tea Exchange of New Orleans (521 St. Louis St.) is a great place to start, check out their seasoning mixtures and flavored salts. Next: foray to Mona’s Grocery (3901 Banks St.) where Kashmiri, Maras and Aleppo peppers are found, Rosalie’s Apothecary (3201 Toulouse St.) for the rosebuds that you’ll need for your Northern India Garam Masala; Maypop Community Herb Shop (2701 St. Claude) where they have classes on teas and things, F & F Botanica (801 N. Broad) to wonder at other uses for plants; and get a peep at all the chilies that you don’t know about by cruising  Ideal Market (205 S. Broad St.). There is an emerging flavor culture that I’m giving you a head’s up on and you won’t want to be left out of conversation when someone wants to discuss the difference between Cubeb Berries and Schezwan peppercorns or how to make a great Chakalaka (just to be able to say that name makes it worth cooking it).

            Soon you’ll be making your own Gochujang, Harissa and Mussaman spice rubs; know the difference between a Berebere and a Baharat and be able to pull off a great Kaeng ped ka-ti nuea at your next dinner party.

            It just so happens that at our shop (Kitchen Witch Cookbook Shop 1452 N. Broad St.) I have eight seasoning mixtures that I can discuss and vend. I just so happens that I have at home and in the wings another six. You’ve definitely come to the right place to nail down someone that is interested in the perfect Jerk (seasoning), the marvels of South East Asian flavor components and/or what constitutes a perfect Herb de Provence, five spice, ten spice and twenty-three pepper blends. How about Adjika or Khmeli-Suneli? Yes? No?

            The other day I made an Alligator, Duck, Andouille Jambalaya; I added Juniper berries, sage, bay leaves, rosemary, smoked paprika, chipotle, mustard seed and annatto to the mix (in my own special way). Do you know how it came out? Farking incredible! (and you can do that too.)

            Okay, here’s your first challenge: you know that great recipe that you have for your famous four alarm chili that calls for a retail Chili Powder? Pick up that box and read the ingredients; do you really want to put those additives into your food and body? My guess is… no.

Myself? I’m comparing twenty Masala recipes to be able to cut my ingredients down to only ten in number instead of the twenty-six that I’m pretty much locked into. Anyone know where I can get some Nigella?