Saturday, November 5, 2022

Dead Restaurants in New Orleans

 

Po Boy Views

By

Phil LaMancusa

I Restauranti Morti

Or

Dead Cafés

        March 11th 2020 the World Health Organization (WHO) declared COVID-19 the disease caused by the SARS-CoV-2, a pandemic. March 15, 2020 states begin to implement shutdowns in order to prevent the spread. The shutdowns included schools, commerce, the service industry, trade and other retail businesses considered ‘inessential’; about two years later, one million Americans were dead and so was food and beverage (‘from farm to tombstone’, as they say). In the country in general and in New Orleans specifically, the thin line between effort and reward was quickly erased.

        Immediately if not sooner, the government began a program called the Pandemic Unemployment Assistance, The American Rescue Plan Coronavirus Aid, Relief and Economic Security Act which put money into the pockets of workers affected by not having any work to go to. 43 agencies took part in giving nearly $4,000,000,000,000.00 to keep folks in food, clothing and shelter. The Paycheck Protection Program gave away no cost loans to “essential” businesses that needed to remain open so that folks could spend that gravy from the government train; unfortunately with the pandemic worldwide the supply chain came off the rails and “essential” goods and services came to a standstill along with wholesale household, food, electronic and repair supplies. Rent, mortgage, insurance and utility bills DID keep coming and restaurants in New Orleans fell like circus clowns in a mud pool rope pulling contest.

        Just when light appeared at the end of a long dark tunnel along came hurricane Ida and every eatery ate dirt; multiple closings (and re-openings) during erratic/sporadic COVID lockdown periods took a financial toll everywhere. Some restaurants never got back to their knees, let alone feet; as one owner put it “I’ve reopened, shut down, reopened and shut down again and lost entire inventories and staff four times and (sigh) I just can’t do it anymore; I’m throwing in the towel.”

        Some managed to hang on for six or eight months; however, many eateries are not many payrolls away from bankruptcy. Many an entrepreneur will tell you that the best way to go broke is to open a restaurant; the mortality rate is one of the highest of endeavors. For large and (especially) small eateries the prognosis was obvious: if the supply chain, labor shortages, pandemic restrictions, electrical outages and spotty trash pickups didn’t get you, the hurricane (Ida) will take the grim and ironic humor (the usual attitude of a New Orleanian if there ever was one) out of desperate and hopeless situations. We watched some of our favorite restaurant’s tail lights gleam and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house; some just walked and others ran away. One owner said it was like watching your childhood dreams die. Yes, it was that bad.

        People that did not experience Katrina do not get visceral feelings when that subject comes up; likewise Newer Orleanians will not wax nostalgic when someone plays that ‘Ain’t dere no more’ game: Rosedale,  Cake Café, Meauxbar, Emeril’s Delmonico, Upperline, Arrow Café or Saint Charles Tavern’.

         Some stalwarts tried comebacks; L’il Dizzy’s Café on Esplanade died and was reborn, as was Couvant; Kebab on Saint Claude made a go with new ownership; Mimi’s in the Marigny is still MIA; the last Semolina finally bit the dust; Nine Roses in the Quarter called it quits on the East bank. Nacho Mama’s; Seed; Sammy’s; Polly’s; The Bordeaux; The Standard and you know more than I do which isn’t where it was and ought to be. Kingfish is just gaining ground after its hiatus; is Mahoney’s open yet? It’s a shame, sad and downright unfair for this to happen to us. As they say: “It ain’t ought to be like this; it’s like being erased.”

        I’ve been in New Orleans on and off over forty years and I can count on all the fingers of the Saints Cheer Krewe how many businesses that served my soul, spirit and appetite have shut down, closed, but still remain a topic of conversation when likeminded friends gather over a glass and recount the food that made us fall in love again and again (and again) with New Orleans.

        The good news is that eateries like Phoenixes rise from ashes, newly transformed for the new days here and ahead; wide eyed innocents and business savvy veterans will take that FOR RENT sign down add a coat of fresh paint and open a new venture that will face all of the time worn challenges of their predecessors; with the same faith and optimism: Bisutoro; Pomelo; Queen Trini-Lis; Cru; Jamaican Jerk House: Leo’s Bakery; Zee’s Pizzeria; Margot’s all vying for a place in your favor, attention and love. And what’s not to love?  

        The sad news is that there will never be another K-Paul’s Restaurant and sadder still is that any of our most welcome newbies will look at us as if we are some kind of weird to be obsessed with recalling flavors and foods that have passed into the otherworld of gestation and olfactory memory; someday, someone will open a restaurant called Orpheus that will bring back those memorable dishes. Do you remember Buster Holmes’ Red Beans; Kolb’s Sauerbraten; Morrison’s Deluxe Cornbread Pecan Dressing; the stuffed pepper and potato salad that came with the Chicken Platter at Chez Helene, the Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce at the Bon Ton Café or what was the name of that little place in the French Quarter that served a fried oyster and roast beef with gravy combo po-boy and called it a Bear Sandwich or what was that joint on Broad Street that deep fried (breaded) their dressed Po-Boy? You see what I started?

        Three things I’ve learned: cherish (and support) your favorite eateries for they also may fade someday; try new places to add more favorites to your memories and The Wu Tang Clan ain’t nuthin’ to @#$%&!* with!

         

 

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