Miss Linda Ya-Ka-Mein

 

Ya Ka Mein and Miss Linda Green

By

Phil LaMancusa

        In her 2008 treatise Gumbo Tales, Sara Roahen describes being wilted, worn out and hung-over from excitement one Mardi Gras Day; and how, “one of the take out trucks had just the remedy: a hot salty soup of protein, noodles, hardboiled egg and green onions that you eat with a fork and called ya-ka-mein, if you can pronounce it.” She cites a woman, raised in New Orleans and raising three children here, calling it “ghetto pho”. Ya-ka-mein is also known to older folks as ‘Old Sober’ because of its ‘day after the night before’ restorative qualities.

        I am a ya-ka-mein (also known as yakamee and Yet Ka Mein and Yaka-meat) disciple and devotee; I sing the glories of this oft times misunderstood comestible with vigor and alacrity. And, as with every miracle (especially food wise) needing a patron saint, an Our Lady of the Ya-Ka-Mein if you will; in New Orleans we are fortunate to have one such holy icon and alchemist amongst us.  

         We have Miss Linda Green; who’s mother was the original Ya-Ka-Mein Lady and who began weaving culinary magic where all things New Orleans begin, middle and end: from the home, to the church, to the schools, to the corners of Second Lines, to the bar rooms of soul hungry everyday people and into main stream glory. I’ve seen her listed in at least twenty different media outlets from the BBC to the New York Times from AAA to ZAGAT: and if you’re wondering; yes, she caters as well. Miss Linda tells that it began with her mama’s (and grandmother’s) recipe and the words: “you might be able to do something with this.”

        And she has. You might say that Miss Linda has taken that bowl and ran with it; whenever someone in New Orleans talks of The Ya-Ka-Mein Lady they speak of Miss Linda who has elevated this dish, revitalized this dish and who has turned a “family tradition with personal meaning into a thriving business and a new Orleans cult favorite.” Toni Tipton-Martin

        After Hurricane Katrina (remember that?), ya-ka-mein pretty much disappeared from our local food scene with the closing (and never reopening) of hundreds of mom and pop food and convenience stores across the area. Even today, ya-ka-mein is no easy find.

        Is there a definitive Ya-ka-mein and what exactly is it? First, it is defined by the main ingredients: broth, pasta, protein, green onions and hardboiled egg and from there it is open to any interpretation. Basically

 1: Start with a good stock: meat, fish, fowl, or veggie OR have your protein strong enough to flavor a neutral base such as water.

2: Choose a protein that is strong enough in flavor to compliment the

3: Noodles (Miss Linda recommends spaghetti #4) I’ve seen vermicelli, ramen, angel hair and even buccatini; it’s virtually your choice. 

4: Seasoning: some use the Holy Trinity (onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic) others also add soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, paprika, bouillon, and/or Kitchen Bouquet. I’ve seen star anise, Chinese 5 spice and even a bit of Creole seasoning used.

5: Hardboiled egg (no substitute although one restaurant here uses a poached egg which Miss Linda says is okay too)) and lastly

6: a large handful of chopped green onions at serving time and not before.

        There you have it, that and a fork; go forth, make your own or sample it about town until you find one you like and try to figure out what they did. Hint: if you see a corner grocery with a sign outside that says: Po Boys, Plate Lunches, Chinese Food; those words: Chinese Food usually mean that there’s YaKaMein inside. Conversely, follow Miss Linda on social media to find out the next sighting and GO there for some.

        Miss Linda purveys her special blend of seasoning and magic like a one woman missionary and with the help of her family brings her secret alchemy of specialness to Second Lines, Super Sundays, Pop ups, Bywater Bakery, street festivals, French Quarter Festival, The new Orleans Jazz and heritage Festival and other places around town. She contributes to groups that help to feed people after severe weather tragedies (Culture Aid, Chef’sBrigade) and works with students at the New Orleans Culinary and Hospitality Institute (NOCHI).

        Indeed, Ya Ka Mein, however you want to say it, is actually a generational operation that includes her daughter Katrina and grandchildren as well. Miss Linda reminisces about her grandmother making Yakameat and having “Porch Poppers” coming over with their bowls to “get them some”. I’m counting five generations here and it seems that they are on a roll. Eater New Orleans will tell you to follow her on intsagram to find out the location of her next appearance and says “Hers is the ya-ka-mein gold standard, so don’t miss it; get the shrimp and beef.”

        When last I spoke to Miss Linda she talked about how she actually wanted to go up to New York City and open a ya-ka-mein shop (I really think that she should take the Big Easy to the Big Apple and show them a thing or two). She also spoke at length of how her Ya-ka-mein sometimes gets started at 2:00 or 3:00 in the morning and how much attention it takes to get it just right.

        And no, Miss Linda Green is no ‘one trick pony’; when you do catch her, (Catch her at The Ogden Museum’s Ogden After Dark most Thursdays.) also get your mouth around her Mac and Cheese with crawfish and shrimp, her Jumpin’ Jambalaya and/or her Dirty Dirty Rice. Do catch her though.